THE WRONG OBJECTIVE
Good proportion is not a disguise. The goal is not to impersonate a taller body. It is to prevent clothing from dividing the existing one into accidental, competing sections.
A clear trouser line, a considered jacket length and a coherent waist position matter more than tricks that promise borrowed height.
CONTROL THE INTERRUPTIONS
Strong colour breaks, excessive trouser pooling and a jacket that ends at an awkward point can fragment the silhouette. Reducing those interruptions creates continuity without forcing every garment to become narrow or cropped.
SCALE IS PERSONAL
Lapel, collar, pattern and accessories should relate to the wearer’s frame, but there is no universal miniature setting. A shorter man can carry a broad lapel or a double-breasted front when the rest of the architecture supports it.
The objective is presence at the wearer’s real scale. Nothing needs to be apologised for, and nothing needs to be faked.